How to Patch a Hole in Drywall

Most drywall damage looks worse than it is. With two putty knives, a little patience and the right order of steps, a patch can disappear completely. The secret is not skill. It is thin coats, enough drying time, and primer.

What size is the damage?

• Nail holes and small dents (under about half an inch): one or two thin coats of spackle.
• Holes from about half an inch to roughly 6 inches (doorknob holes, anchors pulled out): a self-adhesive mesh patch and joint compound.
• Anything bigger: this is a larger repair that needs a new piece of drywall and framing behind it. For that, see the "stop" list below, or hire someone.

Before you start: look first, then cut

Never cut or screw into a wall without thinking about what is behind it. Wires and pipes run through walls, and they are usually near outlets, switches and light fixtures. If you have to open up a hole, keep the cut shallow and stay well away from anything electrical. If you see a wire or a pipe, stop and call a professional.

Older homes: do not sand until you know. If your home is older, popcorn ceilings, textured walls and old joint compound can contain asbestos, and paint can contain lead. Do not sand, scrape or cut those surfaces until they have been tested. Wet-sanding and wearing a dust mask is not a substitute for testing.

Fixing nail holes and small dents

1. Clean the spot. Knock off any loose paper or raised edges with the putty knife.
2. Fill it. Press a small amount of lightweight spackle into the hole with the 3-inch knife, then scrape the knife flat across it so the spackle is level with the wall.
3. Let it dry fully. Check the label. Thin coats can dry in an hour, but deeper fills need longer.
4. Add a second thin coat if it shrank. Spackle often sinks a little as it dries.
5. Sand lightly. Use 220-grit and a sanding sponge until the patch feels flush when you run your palm across it. Wipe off the dust.

Fixing a medium hole with a mesh patch

1. Trim the ragged edges. Use the utility knife to cut away loose, crumbly drywall and paper around the hole until the edges are firm.
2. Apply the patch. Peel the backing off a self-adhesive mesh patch that is at least an inch bigger than the hole on every side, and press it flat over the hole.
3. Cover the mesh with joint compound. With the 6-inch knife, spread a thin first coat over the patch and a few inches past its edges. Press hard enough to fill the mesh. Do not try to make it perfect.
4. Let it dry, then add a wider second coat. The second coat should extend about 2 inches farther than the first, and be feathered thin at the edges so there is no visible ridge.
5. Add a third coat if you need it. Each coat gets a little wider than the last.
6. Sand smooth. Use 120-grit first for the high spots, then 220-grit to finish. Wear a dust mask.

Prime and paint

7. Prime the whole patch. Skip this and the patch will show through the paint as a dull spot. Let the primer dry.
8. Paint the wall. Roll the paint slightly beyond the patch and blend toward the corners. If the color has aged, the new paint may look different, so paint to a natural break such as a corner.

Common mistakes

• Thick coats. They crack, shrink and take forever to dry. Several thin coats always beat one thick one.
• Skipping the drying time. Sanding damp compound just smears it.
• Not feathering. A patch with hard edges shows even after painting. The edges should fade into the wall.
• Forgetting the primer. This is the number one reason patches show.